Winter illumination in Sapporo’s Odori Park
Posts Tagged ‘Hokkaido’
All you have to do is look (147)
Posted by ampontan on Monday, December 24, 2012
Posted in Photographs and videos | Tagged: Hokkaido, Japan | 2 Comments »
All you have to do is look (118)
Posted by ampontan on Sunday, November 25, 2012
Posted in Festivals, Traditions | Tagged: Hokkaido, Japan, Shinto | Leave a Comment »
All you have to do is look (88)
Posted by ampontan on Friday, October 26, 2012
The opening of a new curling rink in Sapporo last month. It is the first in the country to be open year-round.
Posted in Photographs and videos, Sports | Tagged: Hokkaido, Japan | Leave a Comment »
All you have to do is look (52)
Posted by ampontan on Tuesday, September 18, 2012
Posted in Food, Photographs and videos | Tagged: Hokkaido, Japan | Leave a Comment »
Japanese bellydancers
Posted by ampontan on Friday, August 24, 2012
IT’S not well known outside the country, but the Japanese also enjoy participating in and watching their own variety of belly dancing. Unlike the Middle Eastern beauties usually associated with the art, however, these dancers have curves in all the wrong places. They’re fat guys who hide their faces.
Instead of showing their own ugly mugs, these belly dancers take off their shirts to have faces painted on their chests. They stick dummy arms of the side of their hips, hold a covering over their heads, and swing and sway with the music. The fatter the dancer, the more they sway, and the funnier their faces become.
Hey, give ‘em a break! It gives a turn on center stage to guys who people usually wouldn’t look at twice.
In fact, Furano, a town of about 24,000 people in Hokkaido, has been giving those guys that chance for the past 44 years by holding a midsummer festival for the belly dancers. It’s called the Hokkai Heso Matsuri (heso means navel), and the last one attracted 3,700 shirtless dancers. Some of them danced as members of the 57 groups that take part. People usually register in advance, but like most Japanese festivals, no one cares if someone jumps in on the spur of the moment. In addition, 130 foreigners added their avoirdupois to the festivities.
Me, I’d rather watch dancing women with painted bodies, but we can’t always get what we want, can we?
A Youtube? Isn’t there always a Youtube?
Posted in Popular culture | Tagged: Hokkaido, Japan | 2 Comments »
Maintaining one’s cool
Posted by ampontan on Sunday, August 12, 2012
WHY replace something that still works just fine?
That seems to be the philosophy of 82-year-old Bando Kichi, who owns the Kogane-do shop in Chitose, Hokkaido. During the short northern summers. Kogane-do sells shaved ice, or what we used to call snowballs when I was growing up in Baltimore. My hometown also has hot, muggy, Japan-like summers, but without the rainy season.
The ice shaving machine in the photo above is the same one they’ve been using at Kogane-do since the shop opened in June 1958. As with most commercial ice shaving machines, it’s driven by an electric motor, though today’s models have been simplified. Check out the levers on the side.
Reports say this older machine produces ice that is more finely granulated. In fact, the product they sell is not called kakegori, which is the standard Japanese name. A different term that translates as ice water is used instead. This childhood sno-cone connoisseur would be ready to pay the 200 yen to put it to a tongue test. Of the three flavors offered at Kogane-do, however, I’d have to choose between the strawberry and the melon. They didn’t have azuki bean-flavored snowballs in the neighborhood shops when I was a boy.
Either way, you still need an iceman to supply the ice, and the late Albert Collins did just that at the Mt Fuji festival some years ago.
Posted in Food | Tagged: Hokkaido, Japan | 1 Comment »
Ichigen koji (132)
Posted by ampontan on Tuesday, August 7, 2012
一言居士
– A person who has something to say about everything
The people who look at the shuttered shops near the station and declare that the regional economy is in decline, and that regional cities are devasted, have only a superficial understanding. They do not understand the structual changes in regional economies. Using this idea alone to review films such as Saudade, which is based solely (on the above idea), shows that film critics in Japan know little of the world.
– Fujiwara Toshi
He is perhaps talking about reviews such as this:
I saw Saudade at Eurospace in Shibuya (a self-described “art house cinema”). It is a drama of a group of Japanese and foreigners that takes place on the stage of a declining regional city. The film is set in Kofu, but for me, who was born and reared in Otaru, a regional city that is truly in decline, the film was quite moving.
Or this.
Posted in Business, finance and the economy, Films, Popular culture, Quotations | Tagged: Hokkaido, Japan, Yamanashi | Leave a Comment »
Nira kasutera
Posted by ampontan on Tuesday, August 7, 2012
GARLIC chives, known as nira in Japanese, are used as an ingredient in dishes throughout East Asia. My wife grows them in a small plot outside the kitchen door and sometimes mixes them into scrambled eggs or miso soup.
There’s a story in her family of the plant’s rejuvenating properties. Her mother’s relatives were schoolteachers or farmers, and this comes from the farmers’ side. One of the chickens they kept grew so weak it seemed as if it would soon be giving up the poultry ghost. The woman of the house picked a bunch of nira from her plot and stuffed it down the chicken’s beak. An hour later it was cackling and running around as if nothing had been amiss.
Japanese food companies like to experiment with different combinations, and the 3S company in Shiriuchi-cho in Hokkaido prefers to use locally grown vegetables. The municipality has the largest nira production in the prefecture, so that makes it a natural choice for the company’s research labs.
Now they’ve come up with a new product that is a combination of garlic chives and castella, a sponge cake known locally as kasutera. The cake came to Japan through Nagasaki in the 16th century when it was brought by Portuguese merchants. Now a specialty of Nagasaki, it was a special treat during the Edo period because of the high price of sugar. (The sugar content is one reason I don’t eat it unless someone offers it to me.)
The combination of nira and kasutera doesn’t sound very appetizing, but the reports say it tastes better than it sounds. They pound the chives into a pulp first before mixing it with the batter. There’s a precedent for this type of product; there are already castella varieties on the market with green tea mixed in. If you’re ever up Shiriuchi-cho way, you can find a slab like the one shown above at local shops and hot springs for 700 yen.
Who knows? Maybe the sugar high will get you up and running until the rejuvenating properties of the garlic chives kick in.
That might be the problem with the Nira Kodomo (Nira Children) performing the “song” Hen na Atama. (Well, it’s either nira kasutera or hash brownies.) Hen means weird, and atama means head, so they won’t have any problems with truth in advertising.
A few days ago we had a video of a natto eating contest. Here’s a castella eating contest held in Nagasaki in May.
Posted in Food, New products | Tagged: Hokkaido, Japan | Leave a Comment »
All you have to do is look (1)
Posted by ampontan on Sunday, July 29, 2012
Former Prime Minister Hatoyama Yukio visits a festival in his election district in Hokkaido. Mr. Hatoyama has increased his weekend visits to the district because of concerns he will not survive in the next lower house election.
(Photo from the Asahi Shimbun)
Posted in Photographs and videos, Politics | Tagged: Hatoyama Y., Hokkaido, Japan | Leave a Comment »
Big mothers in Hokkaido
Posted by ampontan on Monday, May 14, 2012
GIRL FIGHTS — the physical kind — create strange dissonances in the masculine imagination. In one set of circuits, there is a disquieting, innate sense that This Should Not Be Happening. Coursing through a different part of the wiring, however, is an irresistible electromagnetic desire to watch and enjoy every second of the awe-full spectacle.
And take sides!
I’ve never seen any girl fights in Japan (probably live in the wrong part of town for that), but in addition to normal quotient of female wrestlers and boxers, there are also female sumo rikishi. Most of them get grunty for the sheer fun of it, because there isn’t much money to be made. In fact, some big mothers enjoyed grappling their way through a sweaty Mother’s Day in Fukushima-cho, Hokkaido, today. A total of 58 rikishi-ettes, some from as far away as Tokyo, took the trip to the far north to push each other around and down. Reports say the spectators also had a grand time pulling for their favorite pugs. I’ll bet!
Sumo rikishi choose colorful, almost poetic names when they turn pro, but these motherbruisers selected more fanciful handles for the day. One fought under the name of Tonkatsu-maru. (Tonkatsu are pork cutlets, and maru is the suffix given to ship names.) Another called herself Bakushuppara. (Bakushu is the old word for beer, so this literally means “beer belly”). The referees contributed some comedy of their own by creating amusing names for the victorious techniques. These terms are codified in professional sumo, but none of them include “twist and crush”, which is how one of the mamas came out on top.
Today’s grand champion was a 46-year-old magazine editor from Tokyo sparring under the name of Etsukonoumi, who normally answers to Abe Etsuko. Etsukonoumi is shown in the photo during the championship bout knocking out of the ring an American known as Odoriyama (Dancing Mountain), who is twice her weight. The triumph of fighting spirit over size surely made the event that much more satisfying for everyone. Except Odoriyama.
The term for her winning move was legit — yorikiri, or pushing the opponent out by the belt.
It was Etsukonoumi’s second title; the first came nine years ago. Here’s what she said through the tears in the post-match winner’s interview:
“She was heavy, but I slammed into her as hard as I could. I’m happy to win after such a long time.”
Some fathers give the mothers in their lives flowers or chocolate to celebrate the day. These women probably would have been happier to be treated to a trip to the hot spings, followed by a massage.
While we’re on the subject, try this report on international sumo and the origins of women’s sumo in Japan. Unless the idea of female prostitutes wrestling blind men in the 18th century doesn’t intrigue you, in which case you can skip it.
*****
Not all of the Mother’s Day news was as entertaining, however. It was also reported that the body of Donald “Duck” Dunn, the bass player for Booker T and the MGs, was found alone in his Tokyo hotel room early this morning. He was in town for some concerts.
The obits mentioned his full career, including playing with the Blues Brothers and Neil Young, but that part was irrelevant and immaterial. It was what he did in the MGs, both as an independent band and as the studio band for everything recorded at Stax in the 6tees, that made every news outlet run an article and a photo on his life and career.
Booker-Loo will show you why.
Posted in Sports, Traditions | Tagged: Hokkaido, Japan | 1 Comment »
Japan’s cultural kaleidoscope (4)
Posted by ampontan on Wednesday, March 7, 2012
JUST because the warts of the overseas media and the commentator-bloggers who rely on them think their folderol is insight doesn’t mean you have to fall for it. The national decline of Japan, if it exists at all, is greatly exaggerated. Here are a few short snorts testifying to the national vitality. The first is a translation of a brief article, while the rest are summaries.
Island hopping
Japan Air Commuter, a small Kagoshima-based airline serving the prefecture’s outlying islands, has hired its first female pilot, Hamada Eri (29). Her maiden flight was as co-pilot on two round-trip flights between Kagoshima Airport and the islands of Amami and Tokunoshima. After returning in one piece, Hamada said, “It was different from training. I sensed the weight of the responsibility for carrying passengers. I was very nervous, but it was a lot of fun and I was relieved when it was over.”
Her ambition to become an aviatrix originated when she was a student at Ryukyu University (Okinawa). While flying on commercial airlines to her home in Sendai (the northeast part of the country), “I discovered I liked the scenery from the cabin window and wanted to see the view from the front.” She enrolled at a flight school in Miyazaki City after graduation. She chose to work at JAC because she enjoyed her many flights over Kyushu during training, and because she wanted to repay the many people in the industry in Kyushu for their help.
The flights to the outlying islands are a lifeline for the people living there. “I was spurred by a desire to be of service on these flights, which are so important for their daily life.”
The Tohoku earthquake struck while she was still in training. The family home was washed away by the tsunami. While her parents were safe, a grandmother living in an institution died in the wave. She wanted to be near her family, but her parents encouraged her by saying, “We’re fine. You work hard in flight school.”
“I’m far from the stricken area (about 740 miles), but I decided to put forth my best effort along with all the people who suffered as they head toward recovery.”
Ms. Hamada is the 13th female pilot in the JAL group. “I intend to gain experience and become a full pilot, not only for my benefit, but also for the women who follow.”
—————–
A Japanese sentiment permeates every sentence of that article. For contrast, imagine how much self-importance it would have contained had the story originated in the Anglosphere instead of Kagoshima.
Tokushima seaweed comes home
Last year’s Tohoku disaster was also a disaster for Sanriku wakame, a noted product of Miyagi. To help rebuild the industry, a Tokushima Prefecture maritime research institute in Naruto sent local fishing co-ops some wakame spores last October that the Miyagians raised in Kessennuma Bay. The first harvest was last week.
It was a homecoming in a sense for the wakame because the folks in Miyagi shipped the Tokushima institute some of theirs in 2004 for cross breeding. The spawn from that mating is what Tokushima sent back. The spores grew to a length of two meters, though the water temperature this winter was lower than ideal. The quality, color, and thickness of the seaweed is good enough for it to appear on your dinner table soon. Local watermen harvested 400 kilograms on the first day. The harvests will continue until the beginning of April, when they expect to have hauled in a total of 3,400 tons.
Off to see the Iyoboya
The big maritime product in Niigata is salmon. The Niigatans like it so much, in fact, they established the nation’s first salmon museum in Murakami called the Iyoboya Museum.
Niigata was the Murakami domain during the Edo period, and it was there that salmon were first successfully bred in Japan. Since then, salmon has been an important part of local culture. Iyoboya is the name for the fish in the local dialect.
Iyoboya fanciers say the best part of the museum is the mini-hatchery. Starting at the end of October, the museum recovers salmon eggs and fertilizes them. The eggs hatch two months later. Visitors get to see the fingerlings, and if they’re lucky, the hatching itself. The museum is now raising 50,000 fish, give or take a few, which it plans to release in the Miomote River at the beginning of next month. The museum also offers views of the river through glass windows.
There’s a restaurant on the museum premises. Guess what’s on the menu!
Snow fun in Kamakura
The Kamakura winter festival has been underway since 21 January at the Yunishikawa Spa in Nikko, Tochigi. The event is held in small snow huts in a gorge along the banks of the Yunishi River, which sounds like just the ticket for those who get off on nose-rubbing. This is a hot spring town, so visitors can enjoy both the hot and the cold of it, dipping in the spa waters for relaxation after all the fun with snowmen, snow slides, snow hut barbecues (reservations required) and musical performances. If you’re in no hurry for spring to start, the festival will last until 20 March.
Let 100 dragons soar
There’s a lot of snow in Hokkaido, too — probably more than in Nikko — but that didn’t stop Sapporo kiters from holding their 35th annual kite-flying contest in the city’s Fushiko Park. The winner this year was Tanaka Mitsuo, whose design featured a 100-meter-long chain of 100 linked kites.
Mao Zedong once said, “Let a hundred flowers bloom”, but that’s got to be easier than getting 100 kites up in the air. Each of the hundred was 60 x 42 centimeters, made of bamboo and washi (traditional Japanese paper), and designed to look like a dragon. This is Dragon Year in the Chinese zodiac.
They’ve been repairing the Izumo Shinto shrine in Shimane lately, the first major renovations in more than 60 years. The local carpenters know just how to go about it, too — the Izumo shrine has been rebuilt 25 times, the last in the 18th century, and also moved several times.
It’s the oldest shrine in the country, but ranks only number two in order of importance. (The enshrined deity is Okuninushi no Mikoto, the nephew of the Sun Goddess.) There’s still a fence around one part where mortals may not enter.
The repairs are being made in conformity with the original construction techniques. That includes softening thin sheets of Japanese cypress by soaking them in water, and then using them to thatch the 600-square-meter roof with bamboo nails. Preparations began in 2008 and the work won’t be finished until next year, though the current phase ended in February. Had I finished this post when I intended, readers nearby might have been able to glimpse the main hall. Alas, I was sidetracked by other work and projects, and now the hall won’t be on view for another 60 years. Attendance also required a dress code: t-shirts, sweatsuits, or sandals will not do for a visit to the abode of Okuninushi, even though the divinity was moved to a temporary site on the premises in 2008 for the duration.
Leg room
Naruse Masayuki of Tamana, Kumamoto, has presented a paper on the safety of his single pedal automobile system to the Society of Automotive Engineers in the United States. Mr. Naruse operates a company that makes industrial materials, one of which is One Pedal. That’s an all-in-one pedal for controlling the gas and the brake to prevent accidents caused when drivers step in it by stepping on the wrong one. There’s an attachment on the right side of the floor pedal for acceleration, which drivers hit with the right side of their foot to move forward. Stepping on the floor still brakes the car.
The pedal’s been around for awhile — the old Transport Ministry conducted trials that demonstrated its safety. Mr. Naruse has custom-fitted nearly 200 cars in Japan with the device, but the major automakers don’t seem interested. Said Toyota, “Technicians have studied it, but we have no plans to adopt it now.” One complaint is that it’s more difficult to keep one’s foot against the gas pedal to maintain a constant speed than it is to downpress a pedal. Nevertheless, SAE plans to hold trials in Tamana with 70 drivers of all ages and foot sizes.
Hokkii rice burger
Tomakomai in Hokkaido has the largest haul of the surf clam — that’s the spisula solidissima for you shellfish enthusiasts — in Japan. They’ve got to eat them all somehow, so they’ve begun promoting a clam rice burger made with what’s called a hokkii, which is also the city’s “image character“. (The name isn’t derived from the hockey puck shape.) It was created by college students who liked the clam and made it for their school festival, and used rice for the bun instead of bread. City officials must have stopped by for a taste, because they adopted the idea and sold 1,600 at a three-day event last year. They then conducted trial tastings and questionnaires to get the perfect recipe, and shops around town began selling it in mid-December. There are several varieties with different condiments, but most sell for around JPY 400 yen, which is not a bad price. The idea is to get more people to come to Tomakomai.
Goya senbei
They’ve got as many goya in Kagoshima’s Minamiosumi-cho as they have surf clams in Tomakomai, so a local hot spring resort developed a way to incorporate them in senbei rice crackers. They slice and dice them and knead them into the batter. Reports say they give the crackers a slight bitter taste. That makes sense — the goya is also called the nigauri, which means bitter melon. Several groups in the city, including the hot spring resort and the municipal planning agency, created the snack as a way to use non-standard goya and gobo (yeah, that’s a vegetable) that can’t be sold on the market. They’re cooked by Yamato-ya, a Kagoshima City senbei company, and 40-gram bags are sold for JPY 315 yen. That’s a bit steep, but some of the proceeds go to local welfare services. Give them a call at 0994-24-5300 to see if they have any left.
Strawberry sake
Instead of clams or goya, Shimanto in Kochi has a strawberry surplus. That was the inspiration for a sake brewer in the city to combine the berries with their sake and create a liqueur with two varieties, one dry and one sweet. The employees even filled the 500-milliliter bottles by hand, and you’ve got to wonder if they had the temptation to sample some. There were 1,000 bottles of the sweet stuff and 2,000 of the dry type going for JPY 1,600 apiece. The idea is to sell it to “people who normally don’t drink sake”, which is code for young women. They’re even selling it outside of the prefecture, so if the idea of strawberry sake appeals to you, input 0880-34-4131 into your hand-held terminal and ask for some.
Extra credit
The more serious drinkers in Aira, Kagoshima, don’t fool around with fruity beverages, and demonstrated it by starting shochu study sessions last month. Some stalls specializing in that particular grog have been set up near the Kagoshima Chuo station, and the people who will operate the stalls attended three training sessions. One of them included lessons in the local dialect for dealing with customers. (Kagoshima-ben requires listeners to pay close attention, and even then you’re not going to get all of it, sober or sloshed. That includes their Kyushu neighbors.) The scholars also examined the traditional process for distilling it, listened to lectures on the origins of satsumaimo (a sweet potato variety) and how it came to be used in the local shochu, and visited the Shirakane brewers. Now that’s dedication for being a liquor store clerk. There’ll be 50 of them working in 25 shops at the stall complex.
Really high
If the last story didn’t convince you that Kagoshimanians are serious about shochu, this one will. They’ve just marketed a new brand called Uchudayori, or Space Bulletin, made with malted rice and yeast carried aboard the international space station Endeavor last May for 16 days. It was developed by researchers at Kagoshima University and the Kagoshima Prefecture Brewers Association. (The university has a special shochu and fermenting research institute for students, and I sniff a party school subtext.) There are 12 different varieties because 12 companies used the base materials to distill their own well-known products, including those made with satsumaimo and brown sugar. Those interested in getting spaced out can buy a set of 12 900-milliliter bottles for JPY 24,000 yen, which is reasonable considering the transportation costs for some of the ingredients. Sameshima Yoshihiro, the head of the research institute, says it has a better aroma than normal. No, he didn’t say it was “out of this world”.
Exotic booze
Did that space travel bring back an alien life form? The shochu kingdom of Kagoshima is about to get its first locally brewed sake in 40 years. Hamada Shuzo of Ichikikushikino (try saying that after a couple of hits of shochu) announced they have started brewing the beverage. They’re the only sake brewery in the prefecture, and the first to go into the business since the last one shut down in 1970.
Hamada Shuzo remodeled their shochu plant last year by adding facilities for producing 60 kiloliters of sake annually. An affiliated company used to make sake in Aichi until 1998, so they’ll blow the dust off the old notebooks and apply those accumulated techniques and expertise. A Shinto ceremony was held to receive the blessing of the divinities before they began fermentation with 20 kilograms of rice from other parts of Kyushu. (Kagoshima rice doesn’t work so well.) The company hopes to cook up 800 liters by March.
The company says Kagoshima’s higher temperatures — it’s Down South — make sake brewing difficult, and the shochu culture took root several hundred years ago. I have first-hand experience that Kagoshimanians drink shochu in situations where other Japanese drink sake, and it took about a week to recover. Statistics from the Tax Bureau support that anecdote. They say 36,767 kiloliters of shochu were consumed in the prefecture in 2010 compared to 1,379 for sake.
The company’s idea is to use sake brewing techniques for shochu product development. They might begin full scale production later, but the sake is now being brewed primarily for research. Didn’t I tell you these guys were serious? They’ve also got a restaurant/brewpub on the premises, and they hope it attracts customers who’ll also take a shine to their shochu. Sales in the restaurant begin in May, and in shops after that.
Build it and they will come
Former sumo grand champion and now slimmed down stablemaster Takanohana announced he was starting a program to build sumo rings throughout the country to promote the appeal of sumo. The first will be in Shiiba-son, Miyazaki Prefecture. (Takanohana’s wife, the former newscaster Hanada Keiko, is a Miyazaki girl.) Mr. T believes that sumo helps build character, and he wants to see the rings restored at primary schools and other sites around the country. The Shiiba-son municipal government will contribute funds to the project and manage the ring once it’s built. The construction will be handled by the local Itsukushima Shinto shrine under the guidance of the Japan Sumo Association.
Mr. and Mrs. T sometimes visit a local juku that seems to be more of a character training institute than an academic enhancer. When they were in town to make the announcement about the sumo ring, they attended a lecture by the head of the juku on the Yamato spirit. (Yamato is the older name for the original ethnic group of Japan.) The lecture included this message:
Live as the cherry blossom, blooming vividly with full force and quickly falling from the branch.
We cannot see the color, shape, or size of the spirit, but a person’s spirit manifests in his way of life, deeds, and words.
There are three important things in the way of the rikishi and the way of sumo: form, greetings, and etiquette.
That old time religion is still good enough for plenty of Japanese, and not just old guys who drink shochu and watch sumo. This month, a team from Saga Kita High School in Saga City was one of two selected for the grand prize in an annual calligraphic arts competition in Nagano conducted for high schools nationwide. It was the 17th year the sponsoring organization held the event, and the 17th straight year Kita High School won the grand prize. Kita students also won 11 of the 65 awards in the individual division. Teams from 273 schools participated and submitted 15,420 works.
The Kita girls have been getting ready since October. They practiced every day after school until 7:30, and voluntarily give up their free Saturdays. Said second-year student Koga Misaki, the calligraphy club leader, “We encouraged each other while being aware of the heavy pressure of tradition, and I’m happy we achieved our goal.”
*****
And don’t forget Okinawa!
Posted in Food, Martial arts, New products, Popular culture, Science and technology, Shrines and Temples, Traditions | Tagged: Fish, Hokkaido, Japan, Kagoshima, Kochi, Kumamoto, Liquor, Miyagi, Miyazaki, Okinawa, Saga, Shimane, Shinto, Tochigi, Tokushima | Leave a Comment »
Snow scenes and cherry blossoms
Posted by ampontan on Tuesday, February 21, 2012
SNOW is seldom seen here in Kyushu, and when it does appear, it seldom survives more than a day. That’s just the way I like it.
Snow on the ground is a daily companion a few months out of the year in other parts of Japan, however. One man told me about moving into a rental house in the northeastern part of the country in midwinter. He didn’t realize there was a fence around the property until spring came and the snow melted.
The opportunities for outdoor fun in Snow Country would seem to be limited to skiing, snowboarding, ice skating, and swapping frostbite avoidance strategies. That’s not how the people who live in that part of Japan see it, however, particularly the people of Yamagata. For example:
They play soccer in the snow.
For the past seven years, the folks in Yonezawa have a soccer tournament played on a snow-covered rice paddy instead of a pitch. They think it’s safe to assume there will be enough snow to hold the event every year. In addition to creating a chance to act goofy, the idea is to attract interest in the local Onogawa hot spring resort.
The rules have been modified to suit the playing conditions. The rice paddy pitch is 20 x 40 meters, the match is played with futsal rules with five members on a team (at least one of whom must be female), the players wear rubber boots instead of spikes, and using piles of snow to deliberately obstruct an opponent is not allowed.
The reports from Yamagata suggest the players of snow soccer have just as much fun when they fail as they do when they succeed. Footballers find it hard to run when their feet sink into the playing surface, and hard to stay serious when they fall on their face after kicking snow or air instead of the ball.
They go mountain biking in the snow.
For the past 17 years, the city of Higashine has staged a winter festival that includes an endurance race on mountain bikes over the local tundra. The bikers hit the trail on a special circuit laid out over 2.5 kilometers near another hot spring resort, and that location can’t be by accident. The course even includes jumps.
Contestants are divided into three groups: Men 50 and older, men 49 and younger, and women. Speaking of endurance, it takes about an hour to run the 2.5 kilometers, but that’s to be expected when tires are spinning in snow sherbet or in the air after the rider takes a spill.
They also have races with radio cars.
The engineering school of Yamagata University in Yonezawa sponsors a race over the snow for radio-controlled cars put together by the students. One of the objectives is to have students with different specialties work together on the same team, and this time five teams participated. It’s a timed race over a course that features jumps and other obstacles, and the course was laid out to require travel over snow of different consistencies.
All the entries were hot-rodded radio cars already commercially available. One team of students outfitted the wheels with belts instead of tires, and another added aluminum wings that rotated to bite into the snow and prevent slips. One team’s car didn’t get anywhere at all — the tires never got traction and they had to withdraw after the battery ran down.
Of course they have snow fights. In fact, in Hokkaido, they have international snow fights. With teams.
They’ve been duking it out in the snows of Hokkaido’s Sobetsu-cho over two-day competitions for 24 years now. The objective is to be the first team to reach the summit of Mt. Showashin. They’ve got more competition than the average gladiator match — according to reports, 150 teams with 1,500 members in all participate. That includes several squads from Europe, one of which last year was the winner of a similar event in Sweden. International exchange in the snow!
The Japanese media didn’t report on the rules governing the competition — there must be some — but this is what it looked like:
They don’t waste their time with mere snowmen, either. Back in Yamagata, they build snow monuments.
An estimated 70 snow sculptors in Oishida-machi created what they call a soba mascot in front of the JR Oishida Station. That’s the sort of monument people put up when they live in a town known for soba noodles.
The monument was 10 x 17 x 4 meters, with a “soba mascot” rendered on the front in a style of drawing traditional to the area called kotee. They also sprayed on the color, white alone being insufficient to create the desired effect.
The group consisted of members of the local Lions club, a construction industry association, an art group, and high school students. They also made snow slides and lanterns while they were at it. Odds are they made their way to a hot spring for a good long soak after all that cold weather work.
Speaking of snow lanterns, they make those in Yonezawa too. Those are for the annual Uesugi Toro Festival, a toro being a type of lantern. The event is held over wide area that includes the Uesugi Shinto shrine and Matsugamisaki Park. More than 103 local groups pitch in to make 248 of the snow toro, as well as a candle pyramid and 3,000 smaller lanterns of a different style.
In fact, the slogan for the event is “One lantern at each house”.
They even have flower festivals in the snow in Yamagata. With real flowers!
The festive winter flowers there are tree peonies, known as botan in Japanese, and the festival has been held for more than a decade at Takahata-machi. Perhaps for variation, they also had some flowers shipped in from Shimane, which is known as the peony capital of Japan.
The flowers are displayed on 35 straw mats that are a meter high. The main attraction is a six-meter mat with the flowers arranged in a special hina doll design. (Hina Festivals will be held throughout the country the weekend after next.) Adding to the fun are snow slides and peony miso soup with boar meat.
Yes, that’s what the report said. I read it twice to make sure.
Winter in Yamagata has several attractions for aesthetes as well as the type of people who play snow soccer. One of them is snow monster viewing at the Zao ski resort in Yamagata City. Local atmospheric conditions combined with falling snow means that the trees on the slopes are covered with hoar frost that hardens into unusual shapes. Snow monster fans from throughout Japan visit for the views, the skiing (on 14 slopes over 305 hectares with 42 ski lifts), and the hot springs resorts. There’s one outdoor hot spring at Zao that can accommodate up to 200 people at once, presumably of the same sex. Then again, the air’s so cold there’s plenty of steam, and people probably sink in up to their necks, so all that nudity would go to waste.
If all this talk of snow, ice, and numb runny noses has you longing for the warmer weather of spring, take heart — it’s already started in another part of Japan, despite the date on the calendar.
Way down south in Nago, Okinawa, they have a slogan: Spring in Japan begins here. That’s because for the past half-century, they have the country’s first official hanami, or cherry blossom viewing, at the Nago Sakura Matsuri at the end of January. Now that sounds like my kind of place.
In addition to the usual boozing, flower appreciation, singing, and more boozing, there are parades, dancing by women’s groups and other groups in period costumes, and performances by youth groups.
And I’ll bet they all relax at a hot spring when it’s over!
*****
Here’s a brief video of the Zao snow monsters in Yamagata.
Through one of the quirks of the Internet, one of the suggested videos at the end is of a bunch of people in France shopping at a department store in their underwear.
And the media thinks Japan is weird!
UPDATE:
Now here’s some good news.
Kumamoto, the leading watermelon-producing prefecture in Japan, just made its first shipment of the year on the 19th. Yeah, they were grown in a greenhouse, but they sure look good, they weigh four to five kilograms each (bigger than usual), they’re about 11-12 on the sweetness scale (average, and yes, that’s the first time I’ve heard of a sweetness scale too), and they’ll fetch JPY 4,000 – 5,000 in Tokyo and Osaka department stores. (If you have trouble believing that some people still buy produce in Japanese department stores, remember that the customers are of a small market segment that doesn’t worry about how much it spends.)
The shipment of 2,800 melons was sent out from Ueki-machi. They’ll ship an estimated 2.4 million by July. I’m ready now, but I’ll wait for summertime prices.
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