AMPONTAN

Japan from the inside out

Shochu: Japan’s firewater

Posted by ampontan on Friday, March 16, 2007


MOST PEOPLE think of sake as the country’s indigenous alcoholic beverage, but in today’s Japan, the drink called shochu now outsells sake. I discovered the reason one sweltering summer night years ago when I went on my first date in Japan.

We went to a yakitori restaurant and had a grand time eating, drinking, and yakking with the proprietor and other customers. I thought I might have a beer or two because of the heat, but the lady knew I was new to Japan and suggested I try a chuhai instead. I was game.

Chuhai resembles a gin and tonic, including the lemon slice, but instead of the gin the Japanese use shochu. It went down smoothly, and it wasn’t too long before I was in a fine frame of mind. I enjoyed it so much, shochu became my regular Friday night drink for a few years.

What is shochu?

Shochu is distilled, which sets it apart from sake, which is made from rice and, like beer, is a brewed beverage that has been fermented and aged. It’s the only distilled beverage in which the production process combines the two conversion stages that are usually separate (from starch to sugar and from sugar to alcohol). It’s then aged, which can take as long as 10 years.

Shochu can be made out of most anything, including sweet potatoes and barley in addition to rice. The brand made from carrots may still be on the market. In Fukuoka Prefecture, they make a variety from kasutori, the sake lees left over from sake brewing. That’s a good deal for the producers—they make money off their waste product, and get you coming and going. In some of the small islands off Kagoshima Prefecture, they also make a type from brown sugar.

The word shochu is written with the Chinese characters for “fiery liquor”. Until about 30 years ago, many people considered it rotgut that was the beverage of choice of old geezers from the country who sat on the floor in their sweat-stained undershirts and knocked it back straight. That changed when one distiller had the inspiration to put it through another distilling process to make it smoother and then combining it with mixer to create chuhai. The entry of the more refined version on the market coincided with the increasing popularity of lighter liquors, and as a result, shochu consumption in Japan tripled from 1980 to 1995.

By law, there are two primary shochu classifications. The first is koshu (Grade A), which has been distilled several times. This is the variety that used for chuhai. If you don’t want to take the trouble to mix it yourself, head for the cooler at a liquor store or convenience store to buy the ready-to-drink version. Koshu is generally 70 proof.

The second is the otsushu (Grade B) variety. This is distilled only once, which means that the drink has a more distinctive flavor and aroma. Or, to put it more bluntly, it’s for serious drinkers who don’t feel like screwing around with fruity stuff like lemon slices and carbonated water. This type is often called honkaku, or authentic, shochu, because it’s the original form of the beverage with a history dating back at least to the 13th or 14th Century. Depending on the ingredients and the distiller, authentic shochu ranges from 50 to 80 proof.

This variety is also associated with Kyushu, the southernmost of Japan’s four main islands, and particularly Kagoshima Prefecture, Kyushu’s southernmost prefecture. In fact, Kagoshima is the only prefecture in Japan without a sake brewery. Ask for sake in Kagoshima and you get shochu. More often than not, it will be the kind made from the local sweet potatoes (which are purple, by the way). You want bouquet from an alcoholic beverage? Drink Kagoshima shochu and you’ll get enough bouquet to choke a horse.

I always thought the most popular brand in Kagoshima was Shiranami (white wave, or the foam from a wave), but the last time I was there everyone was drinking a brand called Sakurajima, or Cherry Island. Sakurajima is an active volcano that sits on an island in Kagoshima Bay very close to Kagoshima City.

The popularity of shochu took off again in 2000 when people started drinking more of the authentic variety. It’s not unusual these days to see female clerical workers in their 20s (called OLs, for office ladies) downing the stuff made from sweet potatoes straight or on the rocks. (When most of their mothers were that age, they would have no sooner drunk sweet potato shochu on the rocks than cat urine.) Shochu consumption has grown so much since then that there is now a sweet potato shortage in Kyushu, and farmers are expanding their acreage.

Where did it come from?

There are three theories about shochu’s origin and the route by which it came to Japan. The most common explanation is that a primitive form of the drink originated in Thailand and was later brought to Okinawa, where it is called awamori. This is actually a different legal classification for the drink because it is made with a different kind of yeast (and some varieties still use rice from Thailand). Of the many shochu distillers in the Okinawan islands, only one produces what is legally called shochu. The rest make awamori. As in Kagoshima, is not unusual to find people in Okinawa who have never tasted sake–it’s awamori all the way. I used to drink one of the awamori brands with a lower alcohol content myself, and can testify that it is very drinkable.

Some people think shochu arrived from China through Shanghai. The third theory, and a very intriguing one, is that it came from northern China through the Korean peninsula. And wouldn’t you know, the most popular alcoholic beverage in South Korea is something called soju. All Korean soju is the koshu type, and the leading brand, Jinro, can be purchased at liquor stores throughout Japan (and any convenience store in South Korea.) Jinro says they have changed the taste for the Japanese market. The Korean variety is sweeter because they think it goes better with spicy Korean food. Be that as it may, this variety is meant to be drunk straight (and chilled, as far as I know).

I’m fascinated by the many cultural connections between Kyushu, Okinawa, and the Korean Peninsula, so the first time I went to South Korea I was interested in trying some. I’ll be diplomatic here—once was enough. In fact, I suspect in their heart of hearts, most Koreans would admit that the Japanese variety is much better, but national pride and the Japanese association with the drink would probably prevent many from saying so out loud. There is a more upscale version of soju in Korea that I’ve never had, but I suspect that soju is the closest counterpart to Japanese shochu.

To give you an idea just how funky the relationship between the Koreans and the Japanese can be, a Korean company actually obtained the rights to call their version of the drink shochu in California. The Japanese were forced to sell real shochu under the Korean name of soju for a while. (There’s never a dull moment with East Asians!) But that situation has now been rectified.

Health benefits

A professor at a Japanese university published an article in a British medical journal claiming that authentic shochu was effective for preventing thrombosis. Some theorize that it is effective for preventing heart attacks and diabetes. And really, anything made from sweet potatoes is probably good for you anyway.

How to drink it

There are several ways to drink shochu. We’ve already talked about chuhai, and if you can mix a gin and tonic, you can make that. Obviously, you also can drink it straight, particularly if you’re the kind of guy who likes sitting around in sweat-stained undershirts. Some people drink it on the rocks, but I can’t help you there–I was never one for that style of drinking. People say the melting ice brings out the sweetness of the drink.

Another way is to mix it with warm—not boiling—water. This drink, called oyuwari, is popular during the fall and winter, and that’s how I preferred it. Some people with cast iron stomachs use more shochu than water in the mix, but I downed it in about a 1-5 ratio, which is how they usually serve it in restaurants and bars. This method brings out the aroma of the beverage, if you’re interested in such things, and it also warms you up on a cold winter night.

Outside Japan

Shochu has become more widely available outside of Japan recently, so depending on where you live, you can probably find some. Over the past few years, the Mitsui trading company has begun selling it in Great Britain and the United States, so it’s available in those countries in the bigger cities, at least. Penny pinchers will be glad to know that an additional advantage of the drink is that even the finer brands are inexpensive, at least in Japan.

If you’re interested in further research, you can try this article on John Gauntner’s fine website devoted to sake. You might find it rewarding to spend some time there with the sake articles, too—he knows what he’s talking about. Gaunter also wrote this article in the Japan Times. He gets a little carried away with his language—sake drinkers tend to come off like oenophiles—but it’s worth reading. (the incorrect comment “most of Kyushu” notwithstanding).

Otherwise, I know of no single English site that is the equivalent of Gauntner’s sake site. The sites I’ve seen tend to be contradictory, incomplete, sloppy, or a combination of all three, but you can head over to Google and see what you can find out on your own. Newspapers in cities such as New York and San Francisco have run articles on the drink.

Incidentally, the largest selling brand in Japan is now Iichiko, and here is their Japanese-language site.

If you think you might like to try some, I’m sure you’d enjoy it. I once sent a small bottle to a man in The Netherlands who did me a favor. He liked it so much he did me another favor!

Additional Information
The poster Klutz has sent in an extremely interesting link that provides more details about soju, including its composition and its role in Korean food culture. This is done in the context of a trade dispute with the United States. Japanese will remember there were similar disputes with the US in the mid-80s. Thanks Klutz!

Add to FacebookAdd to DiggAdd to Del.icio.usAdd to StumbleuponAdd to RedditAdd to BlinklistAdd to TwitterAdd to TechnoratiAdd to Yahoo BuzzAdd to Newsvine

About these ads

25 Responses to “Shochu: Japan’s firewater”

  1. Infimum said

    The third theory, and a very intriguing one, is that it came from northern China through the Korean peninsula. And wouldn’t you know, the most popular alcoholic beverage in South Korea is something called soju. All Korean soju is the koshu type, and the leading brand, Jinro, can be purchased at liquor stores throughout Japan (and any convenience store in South Korea.) Jinro says they have changed the taste for the Japanese market.

    You may think that we are paranoid, but Korean origin debates tend to go out of hands, so we can’t be too careful. (e.g.Kendo vs. Kumdo)
    Out knowledgeable commenter jion999 already has a thread regarding Jinro. In sum, the multiple distillation technique under discussion came from Britain to Japan, and then to Korea. Jinro was created during the colonization period, 1924 to be exact.

  2. jion999 said

    AMPONTAN san

    The origin of Otsushu seems to be Okinawa. But the origin of Koshu is gin, Scotland. In 1830s, new distillation system called “patent still” was invented in Scotland. That technology was imported to Japan in the end of 19c, and ex-president of Takara-shocyu tried to develop a new shocyu with patent still and Japanese materials. So new shochu was called “sinshiki shochu”(新式焼酎)
    Only Koshu is used to make chu-hi because taste is similar to gin and tonic.

    Jinro’s origin is “sinshiki shochu”, not Korean traditional soju.

    http://www.enjoykorea.jp/tbbs/read.php?board_id=pfood&page=2&nid=33010&st=writer_id&sw=jion

    There are many data on the above. Thank you.

  3. jion999 said

    AMPONTAN san

    “I’m fascinated by the many cultural connections between Kyushu, Okinawa, and the Korean Peninsula”

    If you are interested in the history and origin of food in Japan and Korea, I think my posts before would help you some.
    I studied about rice, miso, shoyu, nori, cha, etc.
    http://www.enjoykorea.jp/tbbs/list.php?board_id=pfood&st=writer_id&sw=jion&ty=

  4. Durf said

    I’ve been into shochu lately. A soba shop I go to does a great soba-wari, or soba-jochu mixed with warm soba-yu, the broth left after boiling noodles for the meal. Goes down very smooth and is quite dangerous as a result.

    There are some very flavorful shiso shochu varieties out there too. Not sure whether those are potato-based or grain-based, but the shiso flavor is nice on the rocks.

  5. tomojiro said

    Durf

    Agree completely. Soba sochu with tasty soba is one of my favorite.

  6. yasuyasu said

    When Iichico that was good as “Napoleon of a downtown area” came to have begun to be famous, before about around 20, there was an opportunity to drink liquor with Korean sailors.
    However, they said that “Shochu was bad in health” and drank only beer.
    I suppose that a Korean shochu boom will be a Japanese aftermath.

    On the other hand, for business custom, sake is sold as a present from Japan in an airport with much soul services.
    A Korean white-collar seems to love sake.

    In addition, hot water of plum liqueur is good for breaking it at the cold night. It is a difficult point that is sweet, but is most suitable for a nightcap.

  7. ampontan said

    Yasuyasu:
    “Korean sailors said that “Shochu was bad in health” and drank only beer.”

    And here I thought sailors the world over would drink anything!

    I understand, though. Jinro seems like it would do bad things to your body.

    I read somewhere recently that Korean men have a surprisingly short average life span–only mid-60s–and one reason is they drink so much.

    “In addition, hot water of plum liqueur is good for breaking it at the cold night.”

    My wife makes ume juice every summer. I drink it with no alcohol after the bath. She used to mix it with shochu and let it set for a while, and I would drink that oyuwari, but I don’t drink alcohol very much these days, so she hasn’t done it lately.

  8. James A said

    Sochu is great stuff. One of my favs is an “Imo” sochu called Mura. Imo sochu tends to be a acquired taste among people due to its stronger taste and smell.

    I remember going to this great Sochu bar in Osaka, around Umeda. I need to visit that place again.

  9. ampontan said

    Jion 999:
    There’s a lot of interesting stuff there. Do you mind if I use some of it in English?

  10. jion999 said

    AMPONTAN san
    “There’s a lot of interesting stuff there. Do you mind if I use some of it in English?”

    You are welcome. That is what I hope to share true history in English and show it to the world.

  11. klutz said

    Korean soju is pure alchol that has water added back into it. To give it the sweetness they add: Sugar, citric acid, amino acid, solbitol, mineral salt, stevioside, and aspartame.

    Korean soju is very cheep and crappy.

    http://www.sice.oas.org/dispute/wto/ds75/75r04e.asp

  12. ampontan said

    Klutz: Maybe the low-grade stuff, but I think there’s some high-end soju that’s probably made better.

  13. klutz said

    Read the link. This was done as part of an WTO dispute. 2% of Korean Soju is made from the good stuff. Good stuff, by the way, just means made from rice. Not good rice (polished).

  14. [...] –  Or you can just drink your misery away with some Korean soju and decide if it is better than Japanese shochu? [...]

  15. ampontan said

    Klutz: My apologies for not reading the link. That is excellent, and I’ve added a reference to it at the end of the original post.

  16. klutz said

    Thank you for the props. Most people who don’t know anything about soju will believe what Koreans tell them. Mainly that Korean’s “invented soju”, its a kind of “rice wine”. The fact is that Koreans didn’t invent soju anymore then Koreans invented distilling alcohol. And soju is not made from rice, which is false. Except for a very very small amount of “Jeounju” type soju. If you ever had the displease of trying that rat poison, you would remember its awful taste until your death.

    Korean soju is made from what ever is available and cheep. I will repeat that: whatever is cheep. Rice is never cheep in Korea at lest not as cheep as the bulk grains and crap that Jinro gets.

    They distill pure grain alcohol and then add water back into it.

    Then Koreans add aspartame to give it that hint of sweetness. And as you can guess aspartame is mostly used because its cheep.

    Now its done and you get ‘green’ jinro soju. Now mix with kimchi chegae wait three hours and make road pizza.

  17. lirelou said

    I like sake, and avoid soju, except for the occasional “baekseju”. My best friend imports sake to Puerto Rico, and several years ago I brought him a few bottles of very expensive Korean sake. It almost ended the friendship (humour, but he did judge it to be horrible.) On my last trip, I trucked along several bottles of soju and baekseju. He likewise found those unpalatable. I find the Taiwanese sake to be of drinkable quality. The only down side of sake it that it gives (me, at least) a bad case of “water buffalo breath”. I’ve never drunk a bad Japanese sake, and even the California sakes are palatable. Korean distilled sojues, on the other hand, are too strong for my taste, and I would rather put up with the occasional (dilluted) Jinro.

    Jinro: You know your’re in trouble when you can feel the frog’s warts.

  18. ampontan said

    Lirelou: More than two tokkuri of sake and I get a real bad hangover. I prefered the dry variety to the sweet when I drank it, and chilled to heated.

  19. Wing said

    I think the author is misunderstanding the origins of shochu and soju. Soju is NOT the Korean version of Shochu. Soju is merely the Korean pronounciation of the characters for “fiery liquor” and whaddaya know, it sounds very similar to shochu… Just like the thousands of hanja/kanji words that sound similar to each other and to their original Chinese pronounciations.

    It is historically more accurate to say that traditional shochu came from China or from Korea through China than vice versa. Now, MODERN soju may very well rip off Japanese shochu, but like I’ve said – in terms of origin, shochu did not travel to Korea.

    Origins
    ——-
    China -> Korea -> Japan

    Modern Distillation Process
    —————————
    Probably that soju imitates shochu

  20. ampontan said

    “…like I’ve said – in terms of origin, shochu did not travel to Korea.”

    Nowhere did I say that it did.

  21. bender said

    Claims about “origins” go nowhere…I don’ think it helps one nation look superior than the other. I wonder why this “origin” stuff is so rampant in the Far East. Basically, it seems like everyone wants to prove they’re better than Japan. Kind of smell some anti-Japanism going on here. But, is being the originators of sushi or sake make one more superior? How about fermented beans- natto? Maybe they want to deny being the originators of this stinking stuff?

    In Europe, the “origin” stuff seems to be all about money- blocking Americans from making similar products under the same name- which I think is kind of harsh because many Americans came from Europe and it is their “European Heritage”, too.

  22. Jay said

    I am sitting in a hotel room in Niigata, Japan for the first time and experiencing Shocyu, Trangle 20. I am not sure whether this is a koshu or otsushu but I suspect it is high in alcohol content. After a week, I miss my Tanqueray and tonic, but this is close to gin and I am enjoying it. I am going to the bar tonight and hopefully they have chuhai. Thanks for all the information and history on shocyu, shochu, koshu, otsushu, or whatever the heck I am drinking. I like it.

  23. Overthinker said

    If the bar doesn’t have chuhai (basically not likely, unless they’re shut) then any konbini will have cans of the stuff. I prefer to mix my own though – shochu screwdrivers are nice. I prefer shochu to sake by a long way. Imojochu that is, the spud stuff from Kagoshima (or Kumamoto).

  24. Aaron said

    I think Triangle 20 of the Koshu variety. Typically any shochu that comes in a plastic jug is Koshu. But anyway, about Triangle 20, it’s produced by Sapporo Beer and is a blend of barley and corn. I would recommend mixing this with some barley tea (mugi-cha 麦茶) but really you can mix anything with a koshu shochu.

  25. bender said

    It’s same as vodka or any other spirit…which was an issue in the WTO. Try and compare.

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s

 
Follow

Get every new post delivered to your Inbox.

Join 118 other followers

%d bloggers like this: